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Panasonic PT-40LC12
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tase2



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 19

                    
PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2003 1:17 pm    Post subject: Panasonic PT-40LC12 Reply with quote

Is there anyway to find discrete or advanced codes for "closed caption" ON & "closed caption" OFF for the above TV
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Mark Pierson
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2003 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a working Setup Code that it responds to (i.e. TV/0250), you can check the Advanced Codes lists to see if they're referenced.
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usblipitor



Joined: 10 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2003 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

do you have a jp1 cable? unless someone else here has that particular tv or unless there is a .ccf file on that tv at remotecentral, i think the only way you are going to get your discrete codes is to use a jp1 cable.

with a jp1 cable, you would teach your 8810w (using its learn feature) some buttons from the tv's remote control, then upload the 8810w remote to IR.exe over the jp1 cable and click the learn tab. (this is actually much easier than it sounds.) Tell us here what it says under the learn tab. Using this info, if there are disrete on/off codes, perhaps one of the experts here may be able to tell you what it is.

According to a note from mr. hovis, in the market section of this forum, hovisdirect.com lowered their price on jp1 cables to $14. $14 is not a lot compared to what you paid for that tv. Smile

Happy New Year,
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tase2



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2003 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Tell us here what it says under the learn tab. Using this info, if there are disrete on/off codes, perhaps one of the experts here may be able to tell you what it is.


Exactly what learn tab are we talking about? 8810w? MX-500? OEM remote?

Quote:
with a jp1 cable, you would teach your 8810w (using its learn feature) some buttons from the tv's remote control, then upload the 8810w remote to IR.exe over the jp1 cable and click the learn tab. (this is actually much easier than it sounds.)

According to a note from mr. hovis, in the market section of this forum, hovisdirect.com lowered their price on jp1 cables to $14. $14 is not a lot compared to what you paid for that tv.


I have no problem spending $14 for a jp1 cable. Do I have to do much with the cable when I get it or do I just plug it in? I see there are other purchase options i.e. JP1 Cable and Pogo Adapter, Ultra Interface Options. Do there options make it easier to use?

I'm sure I will have more questions, but we will stop here for tonight.

Happy Holidays to all

Mark
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 25, 2003 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
Exactly what learn tab are we talking about? 8810w? MX-500? OEM remote?

The learned signals tab is in the IR.exe program that you would use to communicate with your remote. You'll see when you get started.

tase2 wrote:
I have no problem spending $14 for a jp1 cable. Do I have to do much with the cable when I get it or do I just plug it in? I see there are other purchase options i.e. JP1 Cable and Pogo Adapter, Ultra Interface Options. Do there options make it easier to use?

You only need the pogo-pin adapter if you're using one of the Kameleon remotes. The Ultra Interface is designed for people who find that the Simple interface doesn't work with their PC. So bottom line, all you are likely to need (for non Kameleon remotes) is the basic $14 Simple Interface. Of course, that's just where it starts, after that you will need to start learning how to use it, but that's a whole 'nother story! Smile
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tase2



Joined: 30 Oct 2003
Posts: 19

                    
PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Of course, that's just where it starts, after that you will need to start learning how to use it, but that's a whole 'nother story!


Is it a story that I want to get involved in? If I'm looking just to find a few codes, will this be a very difficult process?

Should I just go ahead and order the cable?

Mark
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usblipitor



Joined: 10 Oct 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
Should I just go ahead and order the cable?
Mark,

Start with the $14 cable. If it does not work, then go with the ultra cable. If you can solder and have a workshop, it does not look too complicated to build the $14 one. There are plans in the files section at yahoo, and most, if not all the parts are available at radio shack. Unless you are in a hurry, it is easier to just buy one, that's what I did. twice, even.

In the future, I am guessing there will be serial and USB versions of the JP1 cable available for sale too. Right now, if you want a USB JP1 cable, the plans are available, thanks to Tommy Tyler (who is a genius btw). But no one is selling them.

Happy New Year,
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usblipitor



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
Is it a story that I want to get involved in?
Let me get this straight. You are asking if JP1 is something you should get involved with. And you are asking this at the JP1 forum. This is like asking a priest or rabbi if religion is something you should get involved with. I think the answer you are going to get over here is "buy the cable." Very Happy
Happy Holidays,
-Steve

A priest and a rabbi were travelling on a plane. After a while the priest turned to the rabbi and asked, "Is it still a requirement of your faith that you not eat pork?" The rabbi responded, "Yes, that is still one of our beliefs". The priest then asked, "Have you ever eaten pork?" To which the rabbi replied, "Yes, on one occasion I did succumb and tasted pork." The priest nodded in understanding and went back to his reading. After a while the rabbi asked the priest, "Father, is it still a requirement of your faith that you remain celibate?" The priest replied, "Yes that is still very much a part of our faith." The rabbi then asked him, "Father, have you ever fallen to the temptation of the flesh?" The priest replied, "Yes, rabbi, on one occasion I was weak and broke with my faith." The rabbi nodded understandingly for an moment and then said, "A lot better than pork isn't it?" Mr. Green
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tase2



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
If you can solder and have a workshop, it does not look too complicated to build the $14 one.


I can't solder and have no workshop. I guess this jp1 thing is probably over my head. I should probably just go back to my HTM MX-500 and just add a closed caption OFF macro.

Thanks for your help

Mark
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usblipitor



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
I can't solder and have no workshop. I guess this jp1 thing is probably over my head.
You can buy a completed cable for $14 at hovis ($14) or filebug ($20) - no soldering required!

Question to group: is there any difference between the quality of the two cables? I wonder why one is $6 more - that is 43% more. For orders shipped within the USA they both include free shipping. (shipping included in the price.)
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tase2



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You can buy a completed cable for $14 at hovis ($14) or filebug ($20) - no soldering required!


Does this mean I don't need to readjust or change the "pin(s)" location in anyway? If so I'm in.

Quote:
Question to group: is there any difference between the quality of the two cables? I wonder why one is $6 more - that is 43% more. For orders shipped within the USA they both include free shipping. (shipping included in the price.)


I'll wait to here the answer from the group before I order

Mark
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usblipitor



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
Does this mean I don't need to readjust or change the "pin(s)" location in anyway? If so I'm in.
You are good. No pins to change in the 8810w.

There are remotes out there that do need eeproms and pins, like the 6012 or the 6131.

I think wal-mart should start selling the 8810w with a JP1 cable. But that is just me. Very Happy
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tase2



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Steve for making this so easy. Now I will just wait to hear the opinions of the group on the hovis ($14) or filebug ($20) question.

Mark
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johnsfine
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

usblipitor wrote:

I think wal-mart should start selling the 8810w with a JP1 cable. But that is just me. Very Happy


I think they ought to at least keep the 8810w in stock most of the time (it seems to be out of stock more often than in stock even at the stores that do stock it).

As for the question of this thread:

You don't need any changes to an 8810w nor to a premade JP1 cable to connect the two together. The connection does unfortunately fit both correctly and backwards and it doesn't work backwards. I hope whoever made the premade cable provided a decent hint about the correct direction, but everyone who has tried it backwards has reported no permanent harm done.

You need to connect the other end of the JP1 cable to the printer port of your PC, which fact doesn't seem to have been stated clearly enough in this thread. If your only printer port has a printer connected you either need to disconnect the printer while using JP1, or (for frequent JP1 users) buy a printer switch.

Most printer ports work fine with the simple JP1 cable, with or without batteries in the 8810w. A few work only if you remove the batteries from the 8810. A few work only if you put very new batteries in the 8810. Maybe a very few printer ports don't work at all with the simple cable and require the ultra (or maybe some people just didn't want to waste the effort to find out what battery conditions were needed to get a marginal printer port to work with the simple cable).
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usblipitor



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PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2003 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tase2 wrote:
Now I will just wait to hear the opinions of the group on the hovis ($14) or filebug ($20) question.


The filebug cable I bought is the ultra-cable. The wire itself has a nice thick protective blue covering on it. I had to remove and reverse the female connector that connects the cable to the remote. Originally, it was oriented such that it was hard to plug it into the remote.

In my opinion, the correct orientation of the female 6 pin connector on the cable should be as follows. The cable should come off the JP1 pins and head away from the batteries. The JP1 pins sit in a T shaped opening. The bottom of the T has room for the cable to come "up and over."

The cable originally arrived with the "wrong" orientation. The cable exited the T shaped opening at the top of the T and crossed over the batteries. There was no room for the cable to come "up and over." I had to mash on the female 6 pin connector really hard to get full contact with the 6 pins. So there I was, with one hand holding the cable to the remote, and with the other hand pressing the upload/download button in IR.exe

So it would seem I am recommending the hovis cable. However, the reason that I bought the filebug ultra-JP1 cable was that the simple cable did not work reliably. I would plug it in, check the interface, and if it would fail, I would unplug it, plug it back in, check the interface, etc. Eventually it would work. I tried it with new batteries and no batteries and had the same result. I never tried it with weak batteries. I think the problem here was not the hovis cable but my computer's parallel port. One interesting thing was that the hovis cable arrived with the 6 pin female connector in the "correct" orientation, which is opposite to that of the filebug cable. The hovis cable uses ribbon cable vs. the tougher blue round filebug cable.

In any event, after switching to the ultra-JP1 cable, I have never had a problem (except for having to reverse the 6 pin female connector on the cable).
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