remotes interfering with each other

[foobar]

I just bought a Polaroid TLA-01911C 19" HDTV at Wally's World. It works great! But, some keys on a Sat Receiver remote affect the TV, and some keys on the TV remote affect the SAT receiver. I have blocked the IR sensor on the TV and all works ok except I have to manually turn the TV on and off. This is an unacceptable solution.

With all the remotes I have owned over the years I have never seen this type of problem. Any ideas or suggestions?

[johnsfine]

Since you put the question in the JP1-beginners forum, rather than the non JP1 forum, should we assume you have a JP1 capable remote (which one?) and JP1 cable?

That would open up some important possibilities for diagnosing the problem, which might lead to some solution we wouldn't have found without that diagnostic capability.

From just the info you provided I don't have any good ideas. The problem you describe is rare but not unheard of. There may not be any good solution.

[foobar]

Sorry if I posted in the wrong forum. I am a total beginner at this site.
I'm not sure if either remote is JP1 capable. How can I determine that?

[The Robman]

I'm not sure if either remote is JP1 capable. How can I determine that?

That pretty much answers John's question, so I've moved this to the Non-JP1 forum.

Given that we don't know what SAT receiver you are using, we can't guess as to what signals it uses, but regardless, there's only 2 possible causes here, and neither of them are solvable.

1) The TV and SAT use the same protocol and device codes, or
2) Even though both devices use different protocols and device codes, there's some similarity in the signals that is causing each device to react to the others remote.

The easiest solution would be to get a different TV or SAT box. A more complicated solution would be to get one of those addressable/RF remotes. I don't remember the model number, but URC makes one as part of it's HTM line. I think you're looking at a cost in the region of $600 for such a remote. If you want to go this route, I can refer you to someone who knows about this sort of thing.

[johnsfine]

Since he is using seperate remotes (not a universal) couldn't he just use a 9910 in place of just one of the remotes?

Cover the IR output of the 9910, so it is just RF. Place and cover the base IR emitter so one device gets only that signal.

Kludgy and moderate cost, but MUCH less than the $600 solution you described.

(Rob knows better than I do whether what I just described would really work and what it would cost).

Also, there is the outside chance that the signals could be tweaked enough (after replacing both original remotes with one 8910) that each would still understand its own signals but no longer think it understands the other's. I wouldn't bet that would work. But it might. A few people in similar situations (but with Pronto remotes, not JP1) have gotten such tweaks to work. Most people in such situation aren't willing to spend the time experimenting to find out if such a tweak could work. With a JP1 remote, such as the 8910, the experimenting is a bit harder than with a Pronto. But a Pronto costs more and ultimately whatever tweak would work with a Pronto would be equally doable with an 8910.

As Rob already said, the usual "solution" is to replace one of the two devices. But that probably costs much more than doing the 9910 kludge I just described.

[The Robman]

Since he is using seperate remotes (not a universal) couldn't he just use a 9910 in place of just one of the remotes?

Cover the IR output of the 9910, so it is just RF. Place and cover the base IR emitter so one device gets only that signal.

That would probably work, but you wouldn't be able to reduce down to one remote this way, but if that's acceptable, we could help you make it work. I have the URC-9910 available for $40 plus $5 shipping.

I don't think we've ever seen the protocol tweeking method actually work, but we've only tried it a few times. If there are documented cases of people getting such a tweek to work with their Prontos, I'd like to see what they did and which devices they were using, as we should be able to replicate it using JP1.

[foobar]

Thanks for all the suggestions. The Sat receiver is a Pansat 3500S FTA
receiver. The price on the Polaroid was too good to pass up, and it works great.

Maybe a more cost effective solution is to return it, and spend about $ 100.00 more for another brand of 19" HDTV. I had considered the Westinghouse or Magnavox, but the Polaroid was a better deal.

Should I take the Pansat remote with me to Best Buy to test against
the other HDTV's I mentioned?

[The Robman]

If you intend to program a single universal remote to work your TV, SAT, etc, then yes, exchanging the TV would be a good option. But, if you don't mind using a seperate remote for either the TV or the SAT box, getting a URC-9910 remote would be cheaper than getting a TV that costs $100 more than your current set.

[foobar]

Am returning the Polaroid tonight and will get a Sanyo DP19647. I will
bring the Pansat remote to the store and try it on a display model.