30 years... what happened? Long post...

FlamingTaco · Post by **FlamingTaco** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:10 am

I have an RCA RCU810 that solved my remote issues last winter when I no longer could take my family's inane ability to lose all remotes in the deepest crevices of the furniture on a daily basis. Having different remotes didn't really bother me, but never having them did, so I purchased the universal and keep it locked away.

From what I can tell, the remote is well built. The few times it has been borrowed without permission, it has been dropped on our hardwood floors, from a height of about 5 feet. It has survived these transgressions without complaint.

The main board is well built, with an obviously appropriate amount of time taken to develop component placement. The LCD is large enough to be easily visible, but was not placed in the way or made so large as to be obtrusive. The IR diode is exposed, but recessed to prevent scratches that can weaken the signal. The battery door was designed smartly, and is recessed to prevent what used to be the inevitable breaking of the retention tabs. The button layout was organized logically. None are too large or too small, and they are spaced just right. Tactile feel and face angles are adjusted just enough so that one can find the correct button in the dark without needing to punch up the backlight up first, without sacrificing ergonomics.

It easy to see how they have taken advantage of time and technological advancement since the first TV remotes to improve upon these devices. What I can't understand, though, is why, with all the time, money and technology invested into these, have we seemingly taken backwards steps since the introduction of board trace switches? All was good at the beginning, when they were using conductive rubber button plugs, but now, it seems they've switched to a conductive ink that flakes off. The difference is that I've got the original remote for our TV, purchased in 1987, and it still works fine after 16 years of use, and has been cleaned only once. The universal remote was used by mostly one person, 5 or fewer days a week, was used relatively little (I usually turn on the sci-fi channel or put in a move), and after only a year, the buttons have given up the ghost.

Why all the engineering except the buttons? Oh, yeah, I know, the bottom line is they want me to come back and purchase new stuff from them.

I refuse. Or, at least I am going to try.

I already tried using conductive paint like that used on rear window defrosters. Many internet sites touted this as a successful method to fix the button issue, but my results were otherwise. It conducted, the buttons worked four about 5 presses, then the remote started acting funny. I broke the case apart to find the paint flaking off.

Now, I'm considering applying aluminum tape, or inserting large headed sewing pins. Both will be a pain, but will last longer than paint. Another option is some conductive epoxy some company had mixed up to fix phones. It is purported to adhere permanently to rubber, so should work well. The only caveat is the price tag of $25, probably another $5 for S+H, so that it will cost about half of the current price of this remote. At that price, I'd be inclined to wait a few months and pick up a flashy URC9960.

So, I am currently wondering if there are any other options available. I don't want to spend a lot of money to fix this remote, but don't want to toss it just because of the one flaw. Trying the aluminum tape will not cost me a penny as I've already got some, but it is going to be time consuming, and I am not sure how well it will hold. Has anyone tried this method?

Thanks in advance for feedback.

-FT

sfhub · Post by **sfhub** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:56 am

I just took some aluminum foil, folded it up, placed in the gridded
button pad for the button(s) I was interested in fixing and closed
the puppy back up. Worked great for select button on my showstopper
remote and channel buttons on my Sony remote.

It was cheap and worked better than many other suggestions.
Lasted over a year and counting.

zaphod7501 · Post by **zaphod7501** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 11:10 am

MCM Electronics has them on sale for $9.95 (part # 58-8890) They only have 2700 left in stock so you could pick up a couple for spares ($8.85 if you can find a flyer with a sales code , sorry , I don't have one at home to give you the code) There was a thread on these earlier if you search.

FlamingTaco · Post by **FlamingTaco** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:40 pm

zaphod7501 wrote:MCM Electronics has them on sale for $9.95 (part # 58-8890) They only have 2700 left in stock so you could pick up a couple for spares ($8.85 if you can find a flyer with a sales code , sorry , I don't have one at home to give you the code) There was a thread on these earlier if you search.

I didn't even think about looking at MCM, I know they buy up close-outs, but in no way did I imagine they would have this remote! That's absolutely awesome that you found them. At that price, I'm going to buy two. Then, in another year, when the buttons go bad, I'll get the epoxy stuff and do all three. From what I can tell, by adding the JP1 header, I should be able to continually add codes for new equipment as long as the format does not change, correct? If so, these will be the last URC's I should ever have to buy. MCM. Hell, I've got an account with them and 15% discount.

I checked the URC9960 as well, but they are $99

It's amazing how fast technology moves. When I purchased the remote last winter, the cheapest I found was $60. I also paid $30 for my router (half-price through my DSL provider). I'm still using a P3-450 that cost me $300 as well. I think I can hear the drums of technology beating right now, in my head.

Thanks for the assist! I'll start looking into the whats and whys of hacking these things now.

zaphod7501 · Post by **zaphod7501** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 4:01 pm

The remote just needs the connector but you need to exercise care in installing due to the way it is constructed. You have to be carefull to keep the pins from extending through the board any further than necessary to solder and then you should insulate the tips with tape so it doesn't damage the sheet. Check Rob's post from last year for additional info. You can check this thread also for modification hints

Post by **The Robman** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 4:43 pm

Here's another useful reference for this remote:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/RCU810/

FlamingTaco · Post by **FlamingTaco** » Fri Oct 29, 2004 6:45 am

I've got flush-mount pins for thin wafer boards, so that will be a breeze. I just need to read up on the programming after I get the new remotes.

Thanks again!