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The chip partner FTDI cable
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ylaviolette wrote:
Otherwise pLan B would be this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004875814012.html

plus this:

https://www.diygadget.com/remote-control-accessories/jp1-2-1-3-to-jp1-adapter

Or this by itself:

http://www.txsat.net/JP1_EEPROM.html


When I last tried contacting DIYgadget, I got no reply. I placed an order but my card was not debited and no response of any sort. I then tried TxSat for the same thing, again no response. So as far as I am aware, neither are still operating.

On the Arduino solution for a JP1 interface, all instructions and parts are in the Instructions.txt file in the JP1EEPROMSupport folder of any recent installation of RMIR. No parts required other than an Arduino Nano and connecting leads. (I have never come across a situation in which the 10K resistor mentioned by mdavej is required.)

I am in the UK and cannot find how to search for US suppliers of Arduino Nano, but the Chinese clones are available in the UK from eBay and Amazon from around GBP 6, and I would expect the same to be so in the US.
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ylaviolette



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the additional info. Would you mind pointing me to any eBay or Amazon link even in UK for the correct Nano? I will use it as a reference to order here. Thx again!
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ylaviolette



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just need to confirm if it's the Atmega168P or 328P model see example link below, does this look right?
Would any/all of these work?

Pretty cheap so worth the risk but will wait for your feedback before ordering.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPs6FqQ
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Barf
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ylaviolette: Again: The Arduino (in the configuration described) operates on JP1 (EEPROM) remotes, not JP1.x. It is not an alternative to a standard "cable". EEPROM are (AFAIAA) old enough for making their drivers license Wink

The Arduino on Aliexpress looks fine. Note that you can get the board with USB mini, micro or C connector. Of course, the latter alternative is the best one, by far.

And build a few of these and these while you are at it. Cool
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ylaviolette



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes thank you, I only have URC-9910s so all should be good.
The other cable (JP1.x) is quite cheap as well so will order one if eventually needed. Order on the way, will try to report back if this works as expected.
Cheers,
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ylaviolette



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just to be clear on the process, once this is done:

(1) Make yourself a JP1 cable - for example by cutting up an IDE cable.
View from the front of the female plug on the cable:
+----------+ JP1 Wire pinout on remote:
/ 1 3 5 | 1 - Vdd U1 2 - Vdd U2
| 2 4 6 | 3 - Ground 4 - Serial Data (SDA)
+-----------+ 5 - Reset 6 - Serial Clock (SCL)

(2) Connect the wires from this cable as follows:
- connect 1 and 2 together
- connect 3 to Arduino Ground
- connect 4 (SDA) to Arduino Analog Pin 4
- connect 5 (Reset) to Arduino Ground
NOTE: you will need to unplug the remote from the cable to use it.
- connect 6 (SCL) to Arduino Analog Pin 5

The connection between the Arduino and PC is simply via the PC usb port and the arduino USB port right? nothing in between.

Then I upload the sketch and run RMIR.

No difference if I order the Atmega1 128P or 328p model?

Thanks!
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barf wrote:
EEPROM are (AFAIAA) old enough for making their drivers license Wink

I think you're just talking about the youngest EEPROM remotes, I know my "daily driver" remote dates back to at least 1999, so it's had its drivers license for quite a while, in fact it's already married with kids !!!
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ylaviolette wrote:
No difference if I order the Atmega1 128P or 328p model?

The ones in the link you gave are ATMEGA328P, and that is what I have tested with. I believe that Barf has found that the 128P also works, but I cannot personally vouch for that.
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Barf
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2023 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mathdon wrote:
I believe that Barf has found that the 128P also works.


No, it was your AIRWidget that I tested. Most likely, the JP1-EEPROM interface probably works on the 128, but no guarantee. (Is the serial communication really the same, the 128-based thing having components only on one side?)

Having said that, buying the 128P would be very "penny wise". My Arduino-thing (to which I previously linked) will definitely not run on the 128P. Possibly you want to something else too, now or later?
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ylaviolette



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2023 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So would this be an accurate representation?




The arduino board takes 3-10V DC so I assume the resistors are not needed.

To anyone following this thread and/or familiar with the Arduino approach
Let me know if this makes sense.

If it does, I will report back once tested so the board can be confirmed as working.
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, your representation is correct. You don't actually have to join pins 3 and 5 together as there is another GND in the row of holes on the other edge. If you are cutting up an old cable then it might be easier to connect each wire to a different pin of the Arduino. You are getting a 328P, I hope, in view of Barf's comment.
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ylaviolette



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for confirming!
Yes 328p on the way from AliNotSoExpress, will report back once tested.
Cheers,
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GTTech



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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 3:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to butt in here and say that I seem to have a cable that works perfectly on a 3660 / 3661, as well as a 1240, but not at all a 1210 or 7935

They can be a bit weird and picky
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mathdon
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2023 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know the URC1210, it doesn't seem to be supported yet by RMIR, so don't know what processor it has. But the behaviour with your other remotes suggests to me that your cable has a Prolific chip, not an FTDI one. When did you last try it with your 1210 or 7935? Incompatibilities between a Prolific chip and certain processors have been fixed in recent RMIR versions.
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ylaviolette



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PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2023 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ylaviolette wrote:
So would this be an accurate representation?




The arduino board takes 3-10V DC so I assume the resistors are not needed.

To anyone following this thread and/or familiar with the Arduino approach
Let me know if this makes sense.

If it does, I will report back once tested so the board can be confirmed as working.


Just wanted to report back on the Arduino Nano option:
a 5$ solution working perfectly. Design above is correct.
Didn't need to pull-up SDA/SCL for the URC-9910.
I just Super glued 6 Dupont female cables together, soldered to the Arduino + shrink wrap.
The cheapo AliExpress 328p works a charm; just need to set it to "Atmega 328p (Old bootloader)"




I can finally get rid of my parallel cable =)

Thanks for your help on this.
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