31473147 Insignia NS-RC01G-09

HamburgerHelper1 · Post by **HamburgerHelper1** » Sat Mar 03, 2018 4:35 pm

ok here is link

Sent raw download to Diagnosis Area
file named 3147 NS-RC01G-09.ir

https://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=25108

Post by **mathdon** » Sun Mar 04, 2018 12:46 pm

jackching wrote:I do get the no remote found message

Can you please clarify whether you get "No remotes found!" or "No remotes found with signature starting ...". Your error file suggests that you are getting the first of these messages, which means there is a communication problem. The second message means that RMIR is communicating with the remote but it doesn't have an RDF for that remote. It is important that we know which applies in your case.

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Mon Mar 05, 2018 4:36 am

What Graham said:
Using e.g., FT231XS chiip, with no remote connected, the message is "No remotes found!"
You will also get that same message, with a remote attached, if RMIR cannot find a valid COM port with a remote attached. Either no COM port has been assigned, or RMIR has been configured to try to use the wrong COM port.
Tom

jackching · Post by **jackching** » Tue Mar 06, 2018 4:59 pm

Sorry for the late reply. I was away for a few days but am back now. Device manager is picking up the new com port fine and is running VCP. I've tried manually selecting the comm port in RMIR which it 5 on mine. When i try to download, the remote light blinks but i always get the message "No remotes found". I even downloaded some loopback software where you jump the TX and RX and send info across it and was working fine. SO my guess is that it is choosing the right port because the remote light blinks but always get the "Remote not found" message.

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:37 pm

Make sure you have fresh batteries. And do a signature blink back and tell us what you get.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.p ... Blink_Back
Hopefully you'll get 3147 like the previous poster.

Also, I added the correct wire colors to your first post. Please confirm that's how you've connected it, making sure you know where pin 1 is. They're numbered:

1 3 5
2 4 6

Could be oriented differently, but that's the order.

I have exactly the same cable as you (from sex-plaza). I'll see if it works on one of my older Insignias.

jackching · Post by **jackching** » Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:54 pm

mdavej wrote:Make sure you have fresh batteries. And do a signature blink back and tell us what you get.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.p ... Blink_Back
Hopefully you'll get 3147 like the previous poster.

Also, I added the correct wire colors to your first post. Please confirm that's how you've connected it, making sure you know where pin 1 is. They're numbered:

1 3 5
2 4 6

Could be oriented differently, but that's the order.

I have exactly the same cable as you (from sex-plaza). I'll see if it works on one of my older Insignias.

Blink back gives me 3147. The pins on my board are numbered:

5 3 1
6 4 2

They are labelled that way right on the board

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Tue Mar 06, 2018 5:57 pm

Perfect. That means we don't need a new RDF. We just have some kind of wiring problem. I'll report back with my results soon.

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:00 pm

For RMIR to deal with the remote, /RTS needs to be active LOW. This is normally programmed into the FTDI chip, but it is not the factory default. There is a program avilable which allows the end user to change signal polarities. Can also be done by adding a simple circuit tp invert that signal. BTW, I have found that my remotes do not use the /DTR signal.

If OP has a VOM, would be worth checking to make sure that /DTR is high when not active (powered but not running RMIR).

Also, FTDI chips work with both 6V and 3V remotes.

//edit: Brain fade, that should be /RTS is used - active LOW,
and: /DTR is not used

jackching · Post by **jackching** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:54 pm

Thomas wrote:For RMIR to deal with the remote, /DTR (1) needs to be active LOW. This is normally programmed into the FTDI chip, but it is not the factory default. There is a program avilable which allows the end user to change signal polarities. Can also be done by adding a simple circuit tp invert that signal. BTW, I have found that my remotes do not use the /RTS signal.

If OP has a VOM, would be worth checking to make sure that /DTR is high when not active (powered but not running RMIR).

Also, FTDI chips work with both 6V and 3V remotes.

I do have a VOM. Is DTR the same as TXD? I dont have DTR listed on my cable. If that is the case i can check it. Are you saying it should be 3.3v when powered but not running RMIR? If it's not, which software did you use to toggle polarity?

3FG · Post by **3FG** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:24 pm

Thomas wrote:For RMIR to deal with the remote, /DTR (1) needs to be active LOW......

I think there is some confusion here. Our software is designed to use the /RTS line with serial interfaces such as is implemented with FTDI chips. /RTS is attached to the remote's reset pin, and /RTS should normally be high. When RMIR is attempting to set up communication with a JP1.2 or 1.3 remote, it sets /RTS to low, which put the micro into reset, then asserts break (affecting the TxD line) and clears /RTS so that it goes high. Now the remote comes out of reset, notices that TxD is in the break state, and runs the communication routines.

DTR was used on some early transistor based serial interfaces, and RMIR will also try manipulating the DTR line if using /RTS doesn't succeed. But there is no need to use the DTR line, and as noted here, most FTDI interfaces don't even bring DTR.

I think you can use RealTerm to control both RTS and Break. So you can check /RTS and TxD with a voltmeter.

jackching · Post by **jackching** » Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:50 pm

rts asnd txd are both getting 3.3v

Thomas · Post by **Thomas** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:34 am

//edit: Serious brain fade. /DTR is not used, and /RTS is active low//

mdavej · Post by **mdavej** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:57 pm

Jack, I'm very sorry to have steered you wrong. I did some testing with the cable you and I bought, and I cannot get it to work either. My other JP1.3 cables work fine.

So for others watching this thread do not buy FDTI cables from ebay seller sex-plaza2014. They may be fine for your other sex related items, but not for JP1.3 cables. I tried them when I could no longer find chip_partner cables. If anybody has a known good cable source to recommend, please post it.

jackching · Post by **jackching** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:09 pm

mdavej wrote:Jack, I'm very sorry to have steered you wrong. I did some testing with the cable you and I bought, and I cannot get it to work either. My other JP1.3 cables work fine.

So for others watching this thread do not buy FDTI cables from ebay seller sex-plaza2014. They may be fine for your other sex related items, but not for JP1.3 cables. I tried them when I could no longer find chip_partner cables. If anybody has a known good cable source to recommend, please post it.

hey thats no problem. I might have been mad if i paid $50 for it or something but it's nice of you to admit that all this is your fault haha. If you find out of a working cable let me know. The main things i want to do with this remote is go directly to hdmi ports with just one touch of a button. Is there a way to do this without a cable? I know i can do macros but i would like it set up without using macros.

Post by **The Robman** » Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:57 pm

mdavej wrote:I tried them when I could no longer find chip_partner cables. If anybody has a known good cable source to recommend, please post it.

What's the problem with getting cables from chip_partner? I just checked his ebay listing and it's still active with the price at $6.55 plus $1.97 shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401430044446