Uhm.... I'm kinda new at this whole thing, but I'm thinking that if pins 2 & 3 on my DB25 male connect melt together, that's a bad thing.
Also, I think I need a new tip for my soldering iron (pieces aren't supposed to be missing from the tip, right?)...
So... can anyone recommend a book on how to get started with soldering, etc.?
Learn to solder?
Moderator: Moderators
Are you saying you are afraid of pins 2 and 3 shorting together after you are finished? If so just use some heat shrink tubing.
Not sure if a book will help much on soldering, do a few google searches for the basics. Best was to get old circuit boards and practice removing and installing the components.
-Be careful of cold solder joints. Created from melting the solder on the iron and try to drop it on the connection. What you should be doing is heating the connection and apply the solder.
-Might want to get some solder wick to help remove components.
-Some like using flux to get the solder to flow.
Pieces missing from the tip? Believe it or not if you don't have specialty shop in electronics, just go get one from RS.
Hope my ramble helps.
Not sure if a book will help much on soldering, do a few google searches for the basics. Best was to get old circuit boards and practice removing and installing the components.
-Be careful of cold solder joints. Created from melting the solder on the iron and try to drop it on the connection. What you should be doing is heating the connection and apply the solder.
-Might want to get some solder wick to help remove components.
-Some like using flux to get the solder to flow.
Pieces missing from the tip? Believe it or not if you don't have specialty shop in electronics, just go get one from RS.
Hope my ramble helps.
Thanks for the reply.
No, I'm not afraid that they might melt together, I'm ashamed to say they already did
As in: click to see image
I think my soldering iron was just too big to stick in those little holes...
Also, I'm a butterfingers...
Anyway, as you may see in my other post, I found a solution, and am quite happy with my new JP1 interface!
No, I'm not afraid that they might melt together, I'm ashamed to say they already did
As in: click to see image
I think my soldering iron was just too big to stick in those little holes...
Also, I'm a butterfingers...Anyway, as you may see in my other post, I found a solution, and am quite happy with my new JP1 interface!
Well, we have a Fry's Electronics, though it is not so much a specialty store as a warehouse. They do have an aisle of... electronics stuff (resistors, diodes, etc.) and even an aisle of surface mount components (which I accidently bought first).Agix wrote:Pieces missing from the tip? Believe it or not if you don't have specialty shop in electronics, just go get one from RS.
I am trying to find a nicer store though. Fry's electronics does not qualify in that manner
Absolutely! Thanks!Hope my ramble helps.
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jamesgammel
- Exile Island Resident
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the "fix" for your pix: Heat the left terminal, and use a pocketknife to pass between the 2 connectors. Most times you can stop part-way in, the solder won't "stick" to the knife blade, and since a blade is tapered, it should lift back out after it's cooled. the blade will also cool it faster, acting like a heat-sink. If you time it just right, the solder holding the resistor won't melt, neccessitating resoldering it. I can't remember if something goes on the errant pin; but I think it does, in which case the pin is pre-tinned.
Jim
Jim
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The Robman
- Site Owner
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Here's what I do when I'm putting together the simple interface.
First off, I trim down just one of the legs of two resistors so that I can use the other leg as a "handle".
Then I melt some solder into each of the solder cups that I'm intending to use on the DB25 connector.
Then I hold one of the resistors by it's long leg and position it over the solder in the cup, and I'm holding the iron in the other hand, then I re-heat the solder and put the short leg of the resistor in it and remove the iron.
It's a bit trickier to do the leg of the diode where one of the wires is meant to go in the same cup. For this I usually solder the other leg of the diode in place first, then I use tweezers to hold the wire and diode leg together, then solder them in place. The idea being that you can keep holding them together with the tweezers when you remove the iron.
Next step is to trim down the "handle" legs of the two resistors, apply some flux and then apply some solder to them. Then do the same to the two wires that need to attach to them (ie, apply flux then solder), then position the pre-soldered end of the wire against the pre-soldered leg of the resistor and apply heat.
First off, I trim down just one of the legs of two resistors so that I can use the other leg as a "handle".
Then I melt some solder into each of the solder cups that I'm intending to use on the DB25 connector.
Then I hold one of the resistors by it's long leg and position it over the solder in the cup, and I'm holding the iron in the other hand, then I re-heat the solder and put the short leg of the resistor in it and remove the iron.
It's a bit trickier to do the leg of the diode where one of the wires is meant to go in the same cup. For this I usually solder the other leg of the diode in place first, then I use tweezers to hold the wire and diode leg together, then solder them in place. The idea being that you can keep holding them together with the tweezers when you remove the iron.
Next step is to trim down the "handle" legs of the two resistors, apply some flux and then apply some solder to them. Then do the same to the two wires that need to attach to them (ie, apply flux then solder), then position the pre-soldered end of the wire against the pre-soldered leg of the resistor and apply heat.
Rob
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
www.hifi-remote.com
Please don't PM me with remote questions, post them in the forums so all the experts can help!
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HovisDirect
- JP1 Vendor
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2003 10:18 am
- Location: Newton, NC
How to solder
From what I see it looks like your soldering iron is to high of a wattage. I use anywhere from a 15 to 30 watt unit. When my solder wanders I use a desoldering tool to help suck up the wandering solder. I have also found that if you make this mistake if you allow the solder to fully cool then you can generally go back and fix it much easier.
The way I make a simple interface is I cut the resistors down first and place them into there locations. Then I use one finger to hold it in place while I drop a bead of solder on it with my other hand. It kind of goes against the cold solder thing but I have NEVER had any troubles doing this procedure. The main key is not to play with it. Solder it and leave it be. The more you play the more solder gunk you'll have to deal with. Then I cut the diode to fit so that the metal part is against the ceramic part of the resistors so they don't sort each other out. If in doubt place some electrical tape around the diode after you solder it inplace. Then solder the right side of the diode only (pins 18-25 are facing you in front). Then tin the leads if the cable if you are using cat3 phone cable. The solder the red ground wire first. Insert it into the prepared connector and add some solder as you did with the resistors. Then continue the same procedure for each wire. I hope this helps. If you need other pointers jsut ask. Well be glad to help.
The way I make a simple interface is I cut the resistors down first and place them into there locations. Then I use one finger to hold it in place while I drop a bead of solder on it with my other hand. It kind of goes against the cold solder thing but I have NEVER had any troubles doing this procedure. The main key is not to play with it. Solder it and leave it be. The more you play the more solder gunk you'll have to deal with. Then I cut the diode to fit so that the metal part is against the ceramic part of the resistors so they don't sort each other out. If in doubt place some electrical tape around the diode after you solder it inplace. Then solder the right side of the diode only (pins 18-25 are facing you in front). Then tin the leads if the cable if you are using cat3 phone cable. The solder the red ground wire first. Insert it into the prepared connector and add some solder as you did with the resistors. Then continue the same procedure for each wire. I hope this helps. If you need other pointers jsut ask. Well be glad to help.
Thanks for the great pointers, everyone. I will keep them all in mind, and may try to fix my messed up DB25 connector (it was only $.50, though, so it may just get thrown out...).
I did finish making my interface, finally (as I've mentioned in a different thread), so it's probably moot at this point. But, if I need to make another interface, I'll definitely be better prepared with these pointers.
Hovis- Yes, my soldering iron probably was too big. It is a 60W, and it has the biggest tip I've ever seen (almost twice as big in diameter compared to the biggest Radio Shack sells, and a good 4-5 inches long [though most of the tip goes into the iron itself...]).
Having never soldered before, I went to the store and bought the cheapest one.
I did finish making my interface, finally (as I've mentioned in a different thread), so it's probably moot at this point. But, if I need to make another interface, I'll definitely be better prepared with these pointers.
Hovis- Yes, my soldering iron probably was too big. It is a 60W, and it has the biggest tip I've ever seen (almost twice as big in diameter compared to the biggest Radio Shack sells, and a good 4-5 inches long [though most of the tip goes into the iron itself...]).
Having never soldered before, I went to the store and bought the cheapest one.
soldering
When I solder, I file the tip to the size of whatever it is I want to solder. For something small I file it into a small wedge and tin it..same for other projects..I just file and tin to suit my needs. Tips are cheap and I have not really gone through one yet.
............SkOoTeR
............SkOoTeR