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Choose the right JP1/JP1.x interface cable - Read this first
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hookminor



Joined: 15 Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This being the case, I guess I have to see if I can get a FTDI cable on eBay. My concern now is that all of the ones I find are 5V, but the instructions provided by Tommy say to use a 3.3V. Other postings say the 5V can ruin the remote. If I follow the guideline of not including the 5V wire that someone posted, what will that do?
Sorry for having so many questions, but I just want to try to get this right the first time.
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3FG
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Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3241

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not use this one from Mouser? Or the same thing from Digikey?
If you do buy instead a 5V version, you shouldn't connect the 5V lead, but probably the only effect is to require you to use reasonably fresh batteries while programming the remote.
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hookminor



Joined: 15 Apr 2013
Posts: 10
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 4:36 pm    Post subject: Thanks Reply with quote

Thank you for your quick response to my question.
In the original thread where the instructions are available to make a cable, there is a posting with a link to a seller on eBay who had a cable with the independent connectors that the poster said work perfectly well for him.
Since I will be a low volume user, I think I'll go with the cable he/she used.
Thanks again.
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mark60050



Joined: 19 Dec 2009
Posts: 9
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:29 pm    Post subject: Choose the right JP1/JP1.x interface cable - Read this firs Reply with quote

Hi Guys, First thanks for all the great information on remotes. I've been using your tools to program my old Comcast 3039 remote. Recently, I got a new Comcast 2256 remote, but my old cable won't work. From what I've read on the forum, the Comcast 2256 is JP2 remote. I plug in my old cable, but I can't even download in RAW format. The cable works just fine with the old Comcast 3039.

My question: What exactly is a JP2 cable. The tutorial in the sticking:

"Choose the right JP1/JP1.x interface cable - Read this first"

only talks about JP1 EEPROM and JP1.X FLASH remotes. There is no guidance on a JP2 cable.

My current cable is a was purchased from DIYGADET in 10/2009. The invoice says it is a "JP1.2/1.3 (FALSH) USB Cable for Universal Remotes T-JP23-USB". Do I need to build a new cable that uses the FTDI chips and mouser parts based on Tommy Tyler's excellent guide? Note the FTDI cable does claim any support for JP2.
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vickyg2003
Site Admin


Joined: 20 Mar 2004
Posts: 7002
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update your tools, you need the RMIR Alpha to read JP2 remotes
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Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.

Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
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3FG
Expert


Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 3241

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The DIY Gadget flash cable does not work with JP2 remotes. It is able to write to JP2 remotes, but not read from them. We don't know why. The latter pages of this thread lists several cheap ways to get a FTDI USB to RS232 adapter, and of course it is available from Mouser too.

RMIR v2.02a works fine with JP2 remotes. The newer v2.03 Alpha is needed for Xsight class remotes that use a direct USB connection.
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mark60050



Joined: 19 Dec 2009
Posts: 9
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for quick reponse vickyg2003! I just installed RM this morning. When I check the about box, it says I am running "RemoteMaster v2.02a". If I check for updates, I get a report that I am using version "v.2.02a Beta 1.5w"

I must admit I am bit confused by the numbering convention. I assume the "a" in v2.02a meant "alpha". I used the Windows RemoteMaster.v2.02a.exe to install the RMIR this morning. Previously, I have used the old windows version IR.exe.

So anyway, I think I do have RMIR alpha installed. Let me know, if I got it all wrong.

Also, for others read this thread.... Can safely assume that J1.2/3 cables will work with JP2 remotes? Or are JP2s too much of wildcard at this point to make any statement about them.
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mark60050



Joined: 19 Dec 2009
Posts: 9
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3FG wrote:
The DIY Gadget flash cable does not work with JP2 remotes. It is able to write to JP2 remotes, but not read from them. We don't know why. The latter pages of this thread lists several cheap ways to get a FTDI USB to RS232 adapter, and of course it is available from Mouser too.

RMIR v2.02a works fine with JP2 remotes. The newer v2.03 Alpha is needed for Xsight class remotes that use a direct USB connection.


Thanks 3FG! I did not see your post when I drafted my last response (multitasking). I have ordered the parts for the FTDI based cable..
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Fast351



Joined: 20 Sep 2003
Posts: 17
Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota

PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I needed to reprogram a couple of my JP1 remotes, and realized I no longer had a computer with a parallel port, but do have one with a serial port. So I decided to build the JP1 to serial adapter found here

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=4557

I have access to a decent part bin at work, so I decided to see if I had any 74HC03s laying around, and of course not. Have tons of other 7400 series but not that one. So I looked and I did have a few 74HC240s around. Basically this part is a octal inverter with tristate outs. Its outputs are bank selectable in banks of 4. This is important, as you will read in the description.



Theory of operation: This works the same as the serial converter linked above with a couple notable exceptions:

1) This isn't an open collector part. It uses an enable line to set the outputs to the remote in tristate condition. This is useful, because it eliminates the need to have 4.7K pullups. Theoretically this should make the rise time better, but in reality it makes no difference, things move slow enough over serial it's a non-issue. It does mean 3 less parts to put on a perf board though...

2) The return line coming from the SDA signal is using the same 3904 NPN transistor, but again, because it's driven high and low, there is no pullup needed on the line, but you do need to limit the current into the base of the NPN. This is why the 27K is inline instead of pullup. I used this value because I pulled it based on the other design, but really any value from 10K to 100K would work just fine.

I tested it in IR.exe with my 8910, and it works great.

(Sorry for the crappy cell pic, finished product)

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