I have an RCA RCRP05BR remote and a USB JP1.2/1.3 cable that is being sold by a seller on ecrater. The cable identifies as a Prolific USB to Serial com port.
On my Windows 7 machine I have installed the prolific drivers and loaded IR.exe. When use the "Check Interface" function the interface checks out ok.
But when I connect the remote and try to download from the remote I get the error: "Jp12 read failed 0.".
Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can download from my remote?
My goal is to program the remote with codes for my Pioneer receiver that I have in a spreadsheet provided by Pioneer.
Beginner: Unable to download from remote
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vickyg2003
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While you are waiting for hardware help, we might be able to help you do some keyboard entry trickery, if we knew what Pioneer device you were trying to control, or what pioneer codes you have.
Unfortunately my only advice is to make sure you have fresh batteries, and that your interface has the correct orientation. Plugging the flash interface upside down can cause you some issues. Pin 1 should be marked on your interface, and pin mark is clearly marked on your RCA remote.
Unfortunately my only advice is to make sure you have fresh batteries, and that your interface has the correct orientation. Plugging the flash interface upside down can cause you some issues. Pin 1 should be marked on your interface, and pin mark is clearly marked on your RCA remote.
I have a Pioneer Elite SC-67 receiver. The original remote that came with the receiver does not have buttons to directly select all of the possible inputs.
I have downloaded a spreadsheet from: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... l/IR+Codes for the SC-67 receiver.
My goal is to be able to program my Logitech Harmony to directly select the inputs. The most direct way seems to be to get a JP1 remote to transmit the codes to successfully control the receiver. Once that works, I can use the JP1 remote to program my Logitech Harmony.
I have the JP compatible remote and I have the IRToy hardware. So far, the IRToy hardware will not transmit code pairs so I am trying the JP approach.
I have downloaded a spreadsheet from: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... l/IR+Codes for the SC-67 receiver.
My goal is to be able to program my Logitech Harmony to directly select the inputs. The most direct way seems to be to get a JP1 remote to transmit the codes to successfully control the receiver. Once that works, I can use the JP1 remote to program my Logitech Harmony.
I have the JP compatible remote and I have the IRToy hardware. So far, the IRToy hardware will not transmit code pairs so I am trying the JP approach.
Success in Check Interface only really means that IR was able to recognize the cable. It does not mean that it was able to recognize the remote. Typically the remote doesn't need to be atttached to the cable in order to get a successful CheckInterface. When doing Check Interface, watch the remote. After you click OK, there should be a pause of about 1 second and then the CBL LED should flash once. About 1 second later it should flash twice. Do you see any blinks?
Are you sure that the cable is inserted in the correct direction (pin 1 connected to pin 1)? Also, look at Tommy Tyler's Trouble Shooting Guide. It was written with his interface designs in mind, but the Prolific chipset should be similar.
Are you sure that the cable is inserted in the correct direction (pin 1 connected to pin 1)? Also, look at Tommy Tyler's Trouble Shooting Guide. It was written with his interface designs in mind, but the Prolific chipset should be similar.
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vickyg2003
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The signals in your file decode to either plain panasonic 165 or panasonic 165 2 cmd signals
There are many utilities here that will decode the signal, and others that will convert the decodes into 5 digit EFCs that you can use against a built in setup code.
I used IRScope for my decodes,
I used RemoteMaster to compute the 5 digit efcs
You can use EFC's to setup keymoves, or you can shoot them directly from the keyboard by pressing setup followed by the 5 digit code. But prior to using an EFC you must have the proper setup code.
To use the 2 cmd signals choose
Audio/0823
EFC ---- Function
06565 MULTI CH IN
34001 MHL
07110 BD
06982 NETWORK
39302 HDMI
07142 ADAPTER PORT
07014 Game
06438 HDMI 5
06614 HDMI 6
07126 INTERNET RADIO
06486 HDMI 7
65878 USB-DAC
06550 HDMI1
07062 SIRUSXM
06422 HDMI 2
06934 PANDORA
65814 IPOD/USB
06646 HDMI 3
06518 HDMI 4
07094 MEDIA SERVER
06966 FAVORITES
For the older codes, that only send one command setup
Change the setup to Audio 0013
00052 TV
00036 CD
00170 TUNER
00040 PHONO
00102 DVD
00192 SAT/CBL
00117 DVR/BDR
00065 VIDEO1
Note, Keymoves remember the setup code that was used when they were created.
Hope that helps. Sure hope you figure out what is happening with your interface.
There are many utilities here that will decode the signal, and others that will convert the decodes into 5 digit EFCs that you can use against a built in setup code.
I used IRScope for my decodes,
I used RemoteMaster to compute the 5 digit efcs
You can use EFC's to setup keymoves, or you can shoot them directly from the keyboard by pressing setup followed by the 5 digit code. But prior to using an EFC you must have the proper setup code.
To use the 2 cmd signals choose
Audio/0823
EFC ---- Function
06565 MULTI CH IN
34001 MHL
07110 BD
06982 NETWORK
39302 HDMI
07142 ADAPTER PORT
07014 Game
06438 HDMI 5
06614 HDMI 6
07126 INTERNET RADIO
06486 HDMI 7
65878 USB-DAC
06550 HDMI1
07062 SIRUSXM
06422 HDMI 2
06934 PANDORA
65814 IPOD/USB
06646 HDMI 3
06518 HDMI 4
07094 MEDIA SERVER
06966 FAVORITES
For the older codes, that only send one command setup
Change the setup to Audio 0013
00052 TV
00036 CD
00170 TUNER
00040 PHONO
00102 DVD
00192 SAT/CBL
00117 DVR/BDR
00065 VIDEO1
Note, Keymoves remember the setup code that was used when they were created.
Hope that helps. Sure hope you figure out what is happening with your interface.
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
My cable doesn't have any marking for pin 1. However, I can see that two of the pins do not have contacts in the plug. I am connecting the cable so that these two contact-less pins are pins 1 and 5 based on posts indicating that JP1.3 cables should have pin 5 disconnected.3FG wrote:Success in Check Interface only really means that IR was able to recognize the cable. It does not mean that it was able to recognize the remote. Typically the remote doesn't need to be atttached to the cable in order to get a successful CheckInterface. When doing Check Interface, watch the remote. After you click OK, there should be a pause of about 1 second and then the CBL LED should flash once. About 1 second later it should flash twice. Do you see any blinks?
With the cable connected in this orientation, the jp1xtest.exe tool does not find the remote. But, when the tool exits the remote blinks an LED twice in quick succession.
When I perform a "Check Interface" with ir.exe, the remote blinks an LED twice in quick succession. I do not see an initial blink.
If I connect the cable in the reverse orientation I do not see any blinks from the jp1xtest.exe tool or "Check Interface" with ir.exe.
Please follow the directions shown here to demonstrate that your remote can be successfully put into programing mode, and that the signature can be read.
You're looking to see that 1) toggling RTS will cause the remote to blink twice, and 2) after performing the sequence Set Break, Set RTS, Clear RTS, Clear Break, the remote is unresponsive. Lastly 3) we expect the response to "S" to be <K, and to "V", <31793179.
Make sure that the last thing you do before disconnecting the remote is Set RTS followed by Clear RTS. Otherwise your remote will be unresponsive and also draining the batteries.
You're looking to see that 1) toggling RTS will cause the remote to blink twice, and 2) after performing the sequence Set Break, Set RTS, Clear RTS, Clear Break, the remote is unresponsive. Lastly 3) we expect the response to "S" to be <K, and to "V", <31793179.
Make sure that the last thing you do before disconnecting the remote is Set RTS followed by Clear RTS. Otherwise your remote will be unresponsive and also draining the batteries.
Thank you for that pointer. Following the instructions in the linked document I got the following results:3FG wrote:Please follow the directions shown here to demonstrate that your remote can be successfully put into programing mode, and that the signature can be read.
You're looking to see that 1) toggling RTS will cause the remote to blink twice, and 2) after performing the sequence Set Break, Set RTS, Clear RTS, Clear Break, the remote is unresponsive. Lastly 3) we expect the response to "S" to be <K, and to "V", <31793179.
- toggling RTS does cause the remote to blink twice.
- after performing the sequence (Set Break, Set RTS, Clear RTS, Clear Break) the remote does not blink when buttons are pressed on the remote.
- While in the unresponsive mode, there is no text response to entering either of the letters "I" or "V". (I also do not see the remote LED flash when entering these letters.)
Fresh from the factory or any time a 981 reset is done, the remote firmware loads standard setup codes, so that isn't a problem.
The connection between remote and interface has only 4 pins/wires that matter: A) Ground, B) RTS, C) TX (transmit from PC), and D) RX (receive from PC). The tests you've done show that A, B, and C are connected and functioning (Break manipulates TX) and evidently D is not. The cause could either be a poor solder connection on the remote's printed circuit board to pin 4, or similarly a problem in the interface cable. I suppose there is a very small chance that the MCU in the remote is defective, but it's pretty unlikely.
So the problem is now to determine if it is the remote or the interface. If you have a voltmeter, you could look for a brief change in voltage at the RX pin. Or if you have a Comcast (or Atlas, or other cable remote) you could try the interface on the cable remote.
Here's the pins and functions:
1 - not connected
2 - reset (connected to RTS)
3 - ground
4 - connected to RX
5 - not connected
6 - connected to TX
One more thing-- make sure the batteries are up to snuff.
The connection between remote and interface has only 4 pins/wires that matter: A) Ground, B) RTS, C) TX (transmit from PC), and D) RX (receive from PC). The tests you've done show that A, B, and C are connected and functioning (Break manipulates TX) and evidently D is not. The cause could either be a poor solder connection on the remote's printed circuit board to pin 4, or similarly a problem in the interface cable. I suppose there is a very small chance that the MCU in the remote is defective, but it's pretty unlikely.
So the problem is now to determine if it is the remote or the interface. If you have a voltmeter, you could look for a brief change in voltage at the RX pin. Or if you have a Comcast (or Atlas, or other cable remote) you could try the interface on the cable remote.
Here's the pins and functions:
1 - not connected
2 - reset (connected to RTS)
3 - ground
4 - connected to RX
5 - not connected
6 - connected to TX
One more thing-- make sure the batteries are up to snuff.
I ended up getting a second JP1.3 compatible remote and a cheap FTDI based usb to header jumper cable from ebay.
In addition to using RemoteMaster v2.02a. I found that my RX and TX wires were incorrectly wired leading to the "JP1.2 read failed" message.
I currently have my cable connected as:
pin 1 - n/c
pin 2 - RTS
pin 3 - ground
pin 4 - TX
pin 5 - n/c
pin 6 - RX
I suspect the RX and TX swap is just due to reversing the point of view of labeling on my cable. I will step back and try with my RCA RCRP05BR remote to see if that will also work with this connection.
Thank you to everyone who posted suggestions. Each post pointed me in a reasonable direction of investigation and has helped build my understanding of the hardware setup and JP programming space.
In addition to using RemoteMaster v2.02a. I found that my RX and TX wires were incorrectly wired leading to the "JP1.2 read failed" message.
I currently have my cable connected as:
pin 1 - n/c
pin 2 - RTS
pin 3 - ground
pin 4 - TX
pin 5 - n/c
pin 6 - RX
I suspect the RX and TX swap is just due to reversing the point of view of labeling on my cable. I will step back and try with my RCA RCRP05BR remote to see if that will also work with this connection.
Thank you to everyone who posted suggestions. Each post pointed me in a reasonable direction of investigation and has helped build my understanding of the hardware setup and JP programming space.
Those codes helped immensely. How did you convert from the codes in the linked spreadsheet to the setup code and those 2 command signals?vickyg2003 wrote:The signals in your file decode to either plain panasonic 165 or panasonic 165 2 cmd signals
There are many utilities here that will decode the signal, and others that will convert the decodes into 5 digit EFCs that you can use against a built in setup code.
I used IRScope for my decodes,
I used RemoteMaster to compute the 5 digit efcs
You can use EFC's to setup keymoves, or you can shoot them directly from the keyboard by pressing setup followed by the 5 digit code. But prior to using an EFC you must have the proper setup code.
To use the 2 cmd signals choose
Audio/0823
...
Hope that helps. Sure hope you figure out what is happening with your interface.
-
vickyg2003
- Site Admin
- Posts: 7109
- Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2004 12:19 pm
- Location: Florida
- Contact:
See those codes in the column labeled "HexCode for IR Remotes", those are Pronto Hex. As I mentioned we have lots of tools here that can decode Pronto Hex. I used IRScope.
I copied the "hexCode for IR Remotes" field from the speadsheet and imported them into IRScope 1 by 1.
When I had a complete list of codes.
Typically the next step is to create an upgrade. In your case, since I wanted you to be able to get this going without waiting until you got your cable working, I used the "Lookup Tool" (link at the top of the screen) to see if any setup codes held the correct fixed data to make these work.
In the search by Brand, I picked Panasonic and had the results sorted by Protocol ID. I then looked at the fixed data in the 2 cmd setups to make sure you had a setup code that would carry the function, and to make sure that I had my fixed data in the correct order before calculating the EFCs.
Then I created a setup in RemoteMaster with your correct fixed data, I went into the function tab, and copied and pasted my function list and entered OBCs into the proper columns and remotemaster calculated all the 5 digit EFCs.
Then to make these readable for posting I dragged the 5 digit EFC in front of the function name, and copied and pasted that into the post.
Hope that helps
I copied the "hexCode for IR Remotes" field from the speadsheet and imported them into IRScope 1 by 1.
When I had a complete list of codes.
Typically the next step is to create an upgrade. In your case, since I wanted you to be able to get this going without waiting until you got your cable working, I used the "Lookup Tool" (link at the top of the screen) to see if any setup codes held the correct fixed data to make these work.
In the search by Brand, I picked Panasonic and had the results sorted by Protocol ID. I then looked at the fixed data in the 2 cmd setups to make sure you had a setup code that would carry the function, and to make sure that I had my fixed data in the correct order before calculating the EFCs.
Then I created a setup in RemoteMaster with your correct fixed data, I went into the function tab, and copied and pasted my function list and entered OBCs into the proper columns and remotemaster calculated all the 5 digit EFCs.
Then to make these readable for posting I dragged the 5 digit EFC in front of the function name, and copied and pasted that into the post.
Hope that helps
Remember to provide feedback to let us know how the problem was solved and share your upgrades.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.
Tip: When creating an upgrade, always include ALL functions from the oem remote, even if you never plan on assigning them to a button. Complete function lists makes an upgrade more helpful to others.