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One For All URC-9960 Pin Adapter

 
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msus



Joined: 07 Oct 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:33 am    Post subject: One For All URC-9960 Pin Adapter Reply with quote

If I order your JP1 widget, can you build me a Pin Adapter for the One For All URC-9960. This RC does not have the JP1 pins on the PC Board just the gold plated terminals. How much would cost the adapter?
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
Posts: 18406
Location: Chicago, IL

PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you trying to do? The Widget is a stand alone item, it doesn't connect to a remote, it's just used to capture learned signals so you can then use the captured information to build an upgrade.

The "pogo pin" adapter that you're asking about is used to connect a JP1 cable to a remote that has pads instead of pins, as is the case with your remote, but you would need a JP1 cable to start with.

So, do you have a JP1 cable already, or did you think that the widget was a JP1 cable?
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stucker



Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was hoping the OP would respond to this so I could piggyback off his answer... unfortunately, it doesn't look like he's going to do so, so I'll hijack his post to ask whether there is anyone who is selling pre-made 6pin pogo-pin adapters? It's for the URC-9660 in this case, though as far as I can tell these are generic to any of the 6pad remotes. I do have a jp1 interface already, but if the only way to get the pogo-pin adapter is a package deal with a jp1 interface, I don't suppose it hurts me to have a backup.

If there isn't anyone selling these, does anyone have a good source/parts list for the parts to make the pogo-pin adapter as described in www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=3967? The part #s denoted in that document are no longer available, and I've been having problems finding parts that would take the place of them (or at least where they're available in small quantities).

Any help would be appreciated, TIA.
-Shawn
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The Robman
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Joined: 01 Aug 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember correctly, sourcing the pogo-pins was difficult so when we did find a source, Tommy bought a whole lot of them so he could make the adapters. I don't think it would be practical to buy just 6 to make one adapter.

Personally, I've always soldered a 6-pin onto the pads of the URC-9960 so that I didn't have to bother with adapters.

If you wants tips on how to do that, let me know and I'll post them.
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stucker



Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm... if you think your tips would work for a slightly shaky-handed person who is only OK with a soldering tool, then I'd love to go that route. I tried on one of my twin 9960B01s and fear I mucked it up a bit... the plastic "lip" all around the motherboard (which I could find no way to remove without potentially breaking the motherboard and/or screwing up the soft LED "keypad" on the front) defeated me soundly. Embarassed

But if you think you can work around my deficiencies, I'd love to have a permanent connection set up. That would keep me from having to juggle the connection and keyboard at the same time... Smile

Thanks for your swift reply, btw!

-Shawn
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't comment on your soldering ability, so if you're not sure you can do it, maybe you can ask a friend with a steadier hand to help you out.

Here's what I do. First I remove the outer casing but I leave the inner skeleton in place. Next, I put some flux on the pads and then position a 6-pin on the pads. I use a soldering iron with a "pencil" tip. I put a bit of solder on the end of the tip then I touch the iron on one of the corner pins where it touches the pads. I think I hold the pins in place with a pair of tweezers. Then I repeat on the opposite corner. This is enough to hold the pins in place while I solder the remaining pins, and it allows me to hold the remote in my spare hand if needed to get the best angle for the middle pins.

Once the pins are securely soldered and the connection tested, I put a nice bed of hot glue around it to help secure it in place.

I should point out that I haven't had to do this for several years, so it is possible that I've missed a small step or two.
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Rob
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stucker



Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob,
Thanks for your reply. One thing I wasn't using was flux - I had assumed that the solder I was using was a flux core, but it actually was not. This helped quite a bit, and while I won't claim it was a pretty job, I think I got the pins soldered in place. All of the pins appear to be securely attached (I tested by tugging around on them with a fingernail, and there was no discernible movement), on the pads, and no visible solder overlaps, etc.

I say I think because when I try to use the cable I have with my new pinouts, I'm unable to download any of the data. Using RM-IR download tells me "No RDF signature matches starting" and a raw download shows all 00 data in each hex position. If I try the older IR.exe and test the interface, it tells me that "The remote interface check succeeded". Still, no luck downloading there, either. I get a "Jp12 read failed -1." when I try. Note that I'm using a JP1.2 usb interface with a JP1 adapter, purchased from DIYGadget, on a Win7 x64 system. I'm starting to wonder if the problem is my connection or if I have the wrong interface cable/adapter given my setup. Any suggestions?

I'm guessing this may actually be the wrong place to post my problems, should I repost this in a different forum?

Thanks for your help,
-Shawn
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The Robman
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have any other JP1 remotes that you can use to test your cable/adapter? That would tell you whether to focus your efforts on debugging the URC-9960 or the cable/adapter.

Assuming the cable at least works with your other JP1.x remotes, I would have to guess that the problem is with your soldering. I would re-touch each of the 6-pins to ensure that you don't have a cold solder connection. You should also look for any possible shorts between the pins

Also, keep in mind that some versions of the URC-9960 have a 4k EEPROM (while others have a 2k EEPROM). The code to read and write to a 4k (or greater) chip is different to the code used for a 2k (or smaller) chip and IR.exe gives you the ability to specify which it is. I don't recall how this is handled using RMIR.

If you're unsure which size EEPROM you have, I think generally the URC-9960B01 and URC-9960BJ5 came with a 4k chip and the original URC-9960 came with a 2k chip. If in doubt, try both methods to see if either works.

How much programming is in your URC-9960 already? If it's not much, try doing a 981 reset before downloading, but be aware that a 981 reset will wipe out EVERYTHING that you have manually programmed, so use this as a last resort if you have a lot of programming in there.
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stucker



Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unfortunately, the only other JP1 remote I have is a Radio Shack 15-2133, which also does not have existing pins. I wasn't even going to think about touching that one until I can get the Kameleons working, as it's got additional concerns to worry about (the placement of the pads interfere with pulling the batteries, so no way to put in a permanent connection).

I took the remote apart again, touched up the solder joints, and took a good look, and don't see anything obvious. If it's a soldering issue, I guess I'm not savvy enough to see it.

I'm pretty sure it's the 4k chip - both remotes are the URC-9960B01 model, and one of them (the one I tried to solder a pin-out on previously with no luck) I've programmed via the built-in modem, using a 4k EEPROM size, and that worked perfectly.

One of the remotes (the one that I did not solder a pin-out in this time) has my current entertainment system layout in it. I programmed that via a .wav file, however, so I have all of that as files (IR compatible, RM-IR compatible, and the .wav file) so if necessary I could wipe it... but the one that is being used to test right now (that has my pin-out soldered in) is the default setup, right out of the packaging... so wiping data is no issue. Unfortunately, the 981 reset does nothing for me, I get the exact same results.

I'm reading lots of stuff in the other forum areas about people having problems with the DIYGadget JP1.2 + JP1 adapter combos... I'm seriously considering buying one of Tommy Tyler's JP1 EEPROM interfaces and seeing if that works.

Thanks for all your help!
-Shawn
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stucker



Joined: 02 Nov 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So my gamble paid off. Apparently the problem was in the interface cable, not in my soldering ability. Using Tommy Tyler's JP1 EEPROM interface I can download from and upload to my remote without issue.

Rob, thanks much for taking the time to try to help me.

-Shawn
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