No-name Chinese 5 port HDMI switch

MikeBear · Post by **MikeBear** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:36 am

1. Device: Noname Chinese 5 port HDMI switch
2. Type of device: 5 port mini hdmi switch
3. Year: 2011
4. JP1/UEI Remote model: 15-133 OR 15-135
5. Do you have a JP1 cable? Yes
6. Still have original remote? No
7. Checked the file section? Yes
8. Checked Pronto file section (at R/C)? Yes
9. Partially working setup code? Yes, Nec1
10. Learning remote question? N/A
11. Have you tried the JP1 Lookup Tool? Yes

HDMI switch looks like this, but the def file I found for this doesn't control it:
http://enjoygadgets.com/5-Port-HDMI-Swi ... ntrol.html

Original tiny credit card 5 button remote (1 through 5) sat on and crushed by wife. Unable to repair. Button 4 only one that still works. Learned that, and it decoded as:

NEC1 dev 0, OBC 13

Forgive me if I'm not quite asking or formatting this correctly, I've been cramming this into my brain over the last 24 hours. I have never programmed a jp1.3 remote before this, and am trying to learn. My brain is swimming, as I'm doing this right after hernia surgery, and it's a good distraction due to pain. I'm trying to figure out the relationship in the pulled codes above, and try to extrapolate what buttons 1, 2, 3, and 5 should be programmed as. I haven't been able to figure it out as of yet.

Can anybody help?

Thanks, I really appreciate it! Mike

Post by **vickyg2003** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:18 am

Hi Mike,

It sounds like you've jumped into this with both feet. There is certainly enough to keep your mind off your pain!

You are lucky that you could capture a key. That is going to make this a piece of cake.

You need to create a Nec 1 upgrade. The Device is 0, the subdevice is EMPTY. Then you test the 0BCs. I would suggest you start with 4, 8 and 10 for 1, 2, and 3. Otherwise you methodically start with OBC's 0 and test through 255 until you find a match....

You can use either RM or KM to create your upgrade.

Good Luck

Post by **The Robman** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:16 am

I checked all the NEC1 dev 0 files that we have for switches to see if any of them use OBC 13 for the #4 button and came up empty, so I don't have OBCs to give you for the other buttons. So, I have created some test upgrades that include all the OBCs, except 13, so you can test them. I have added these upgrades to an IR file for the 15-133 remote ready for you.

So, download the zip file below and load the IR file into your 15-133 remote (remembering to save your current configuration first, so you can reload it afterwards). Then try each device button, starting with the TV button, and try each button on the remote. When you find a button that does something, make a note of it, so when you're done you should have something like this:

input 1 = TV, #3 button
input 2 = DVD, PLAY button
etc

With that info, I can build a proper upgrade file for you.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=11453

MaskedMan · Post by **MaskedMan** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:37 am

see this thread:

http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mb ... eywords=79

MikeBear · Post by **MikeBear** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:26 pm

The Robman wrote:I checked all the NEC1 dev 0 files that we have for switches to see if any of them use OBC 13 for the #4 button and came up empty, so I don't have OBCs to give you for the other buttons. So, I have created some test upgrades that include all the OBCs, except 13, so you can test them. I have added these upgrades to an IR file for the 15-133 remote ready for you.

So, download the zip file below and load the IR file into your 15-133 remote (remembering to save your current configuration first, so you can reload it afterwards). Then try each device button, starting with the TV button, and try each button on the remote. When you find a button that does something, make a note of it, so when you're done you should have something like this:

input 1 = TV, #3 button
input 2 = DVD, PLAY button
etc

With that info, I can build a proper upgrade file for you.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=11453

Thanks guys, I REALLY appreciate it!

"The Robman" here's what I found when I loaded your "test file.ir":

input 1 = TV, "Up Arrow" button
input 2 = TV, "Down Arrow" button
input 3 = TV, "Exit" button
input 5 = TV, "Right Arrow" button

I'm looking forward to getting this going, since it's a bitch to get up and down off the couch right now! Good thing I had a usb/ttl device: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150838663524?ss ... 1439.l2649 That I was able to mod by tapping and additional line for the "RTS" signal. All I had to do was solder a wire to pin #3 of the PL2303HX IC chip for RTS. Just thought I'd let people know that device works, but you'll need a very fine soldering iron, and one of those microscope head pieces over your eyes to solder that wire.

Mike

Post by **The Robman** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:49 pm

Is "Edit button" a typo for "Exit button"? Based on that assumption I created the following upgrade file for you:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=11454

MikeBear · Post by **MikeBear** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:01 pm

The Robman wrote:Is "Edit button" a typo for "Exit button"? Based on that assumption I created the following upgrade file for you:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload ... e_id=11454

Yup, I typo'ed it, and changed it a bit later when I realized it. Sorry about that.

Thanks, I'm going to try this right now, and let you know.

Mike

MikeBear · Post by **MikeBear** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:33 pm

It works!!! I have now programmed my RS 15-133 and 15-135 remote with the added HDMI switch codes.

Thanks so much. I don't understand yet how these work, and how the relationship of figuring out and creating the new device works, but I'll leave that to another time when I can concentrate better.

We had turkey for dinner last night, and something (maybe pepper?) created an asthma attack coughing fit. OMG, did my gut hurt from coughing! I had to hold myself in tight, and even so, I tore a steri-strip a tiny bit that's holding the long surgery cut closed. That pain makes things even harder right now.

Thank-you again, you have made my day! I spent 3 days trying to repair that little crushed remote before this, and you just can't get solder to stick to any of the traces on it.

Mike

Post by **The Robman** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 6:45 am

MikeBear wrote:I spent 3 days trying to repair that little crushed remote before this, and you just can't get solder to stick to any of the traces on it.

Are you using flux? When I've done repairs like this, first I scrape the surface of the trace to remove any plastic-like coating that might be there, then I apply some flux and then I use some really fine wire, and of course, a delicate touch!

cauer29 · Post by **cauer29** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:38 am

MikeBear wrote:It works!!! I have now programmed my RS 15-133 and 15-135 remote with the added HDMI switch codes.

Thanks so much. I don't understand yet how these work, and how the relationship of figuring out and creating the new device works, but I'll leave that to another time when I can concentrate better.

We had turkey for dinner last night, and something (maybe pepper?) created an asthma attack coughing fit. OMG, did my gut hurt from coughing! I had to hold myself in tight, and even so, I tore a steri-strip a tiny bit that's holding the long surgery cut closed. That pain makes things even harder right now.

Thank-you again, you have made my day! I spent 3 days trying to repair that little crushed remote before this, and you just can't get solder to stick to any of the traces on it.

Mike

When solder won't stick or the heat is likely to cause damage (flex circuit), you can use silver conductive paint. It is sold in auto parts stores for repairing rear window defoggers. It comes with a tiny brush for application, but I usually use a toothpick to apply it. Works a treat.

A.A.

MikeBear · Post by **MikeBear** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:50 pm

Oh, yeah. I've been an electronics tech for 45 years. I can still solder the wings back on a mosquito, and make them stick. I don't have any way at present to get the paint silver stuff, as I'm on sick leave and not legal to drive for the week from the surgery. Oh, and I didn't think of that stuff either, lol. I bet it would have worked.

The boards on these junky little remotes are not normal boards with normal circuit traces. I'm not sure what they are, but they are printed multi-level, very thin, and even if you scrape the coating off of the traces, solder just doesn't easily stick to them. It's not the normal reasons why either with old-school electronics. There's something about the metal that doesn't let solder stick to the pass-through "rivets" that carry the trace through the board. See, even they couldn't solder to them, they use these pop-rivet things that are stamped/squashed against both sides of the board to pass the circuit through from one level to another.

Anyway, I don't need that remote anymore thanks to you guys, and figuring out enough of the jp1.3 stuff to program my remote.

Thanks!

Post by **The Robman** » Tue Oct 30, 2012 1:28 pm

MikeBear wrote:I can still solder the wings back on a mosquito, and make them stick.

I think we're gonna need to see pics!!!