JP1 Remotes

It was the way I was copying the device upgrade and the protocol using KM. Like I said it has been a long time and I was trying to do it the way I thought I used to do it. Essentially a CTRL C and CTRL V but I wasn't copying it all. I'm sure it will work great now. Yes, I have been messing with the ...

I just want to say in advance a big Thank You to all involved in this forum. Your help throughout my time here has been great. I'm sure my problem is due to the thick layer of rust building up from non use. These are the files that I am using to try and make it happen.
http://www.hifi-remote.com ...

I have been away for a while and came back to the forum to work on setting up a new remote for future use and to make things even easier on the family. The problem I am having is that when I have an upgrade device code or take an already created device code from the files section and do the upgrade ...

I saw something on this when I was searching the forum. I know that no jumper is required for the 6131nw which is just walmarts model of the 6131n. Walmart has this remote for under ten dollars now.

Thanks Robman,
I've got 10 eeproms on the way and the pin headers. I figure I'll make up a bunch and either give them away as presents or keep them all for myself. You never know when you'll need a spare.

I did see the post but did not follow it to the information on the 6011, 6012w because the remote was different. I did look at it now that you brought it up and it looks like it should prevent me from making a mistake provided the orientation is the same for the 6131nw and the 6011, 6012w for eeprom ...

I see a spot that looks like it could be where the eeprom goes. 8 pads that have solder bumps on them. It isn't labelled though. Now the question is how to determine the orientation of the eeprom to prevent installing it backwards. I don't like the 50/50/90 thing. It always works out that I install ...

Thanks to Tommy Tyler. I have managed to get the case apart on a new 6131nw. When I look inside I see the spot for the 6 pin header but I don't see a spot for an eeprom to go. I'm just a dumb old mechanical guy who usually uses all the information that you smart guys come up with to do any mods. I ...

Thanks Rob,
It worked great once I got back into the swing of things. The 1994 is great for all this stuff. There is almost enough buttons to go around. It's amazing how much you forget when you don't use it for a while. Now I'll be able to get the wife to record on the 140 hr unit and start ...

As always, I knew Robman would know. Sorry to take up your time with such an easy question. Thanks,

Don

I know I've seen this information somewhere but doing a search didn't turn it up for me. I want to run to Replay/ Showstopper units in one room and would like to control them with a single 1994 remote. Does anyone know where the information is at for setting up the remote to individually control ...

I looked up the setup code that my TV uses Toshiba 32" TV - model CZ32V51 Robman, I figured you for a plasma or DLP set. Maybe your like me and the toshiba is your smaller set. I'm sure this will help the newbies out. I remember way back when figuring my way through the original Tommy Tyler ...

Mark,
That has corrected the problem. Now all my 1994's and the showstopper remote upload correctly. This probably resolve the issues some were have with other remotes communicating via the USB cable. Thanks for the good work resolving this. I sure digitize appreciates it more than me.

I guess the best thing to do is decide which keys you really want. There is no sense in putting key functions on the 2116 that you'll never use. I set up macros to do things like turn off the VCR and switch inputs of the TV and Receiver. Then one button does the functions. It makes controlling the ...

Sorry Tommy,
I forgot to mention that. I figured you would have to get the USB cable to troubleshoot it anyways and knew you would find this out.