JP1 Remotes

Why not this:
https://www.jameco.com/z/371-Adafruit-Industries-6-Pin-Socket-Socket-IDC-Cable-6_2501127.html
plus this:
https://www.jameco.com/z/77313-118-04LF-Amphenol-Unshrouded-Pin-Header-Dual-Row-Vertical-30-Position-2x15-2-54mm-Pitch_203879.html

Plug and play with any 6 connector cable. No ...

I got a similar variety pack of heat shrink at Harbor Freight for a similar price. I use 2 pieces on my cables, a big one for the connector and smaller one where it meets the cable. Nice tight fit.

I don't see any reason a phone jack/plug in between wouldn't work. But that seems unnecessary. Like ...

I've never had a JP1 cable wear out. Maybe if you heat shrink around the cable and connector that would be enough strain relief to keep it from wearing out?

I suspect your current issue is not actually caused by the cables. Just specify the correct the comm port. It can change when you plug in a ...

That one should work. Are you sure is not a driver or setting issue? Maybe try picking the com port in RMIR first?

@systech_larry, that one you ordered should be fine. I think I have a couple myself. I'm not so lucky with Prolific. Drivers are usually a nightmare for me, especially on Win 10 and 11. @urc6131 's is not something I would have chosen.

That's great news! Glad you got it going again.

Strange that the signature won't change. I'm out of ideas.

Try starting with the factory image, file>install extender like you did initially and upload that one. All we're trying to do at this point is get the signature changed again. If you can upload that one, try the deactivate again.

I think the double blink on the device buttons means the extender is present, but the signature is wrong. So to get to the point you can deactivate, reload the matching extender version from RMIR so the signature gets updated to match. At that point, you should be able to deactivate. Not sure what ...

I would just load your last good config and see if it works.

Discovered codes for a few more non-US streaming apps and updated file. Follow link in opening post.

The Robman wrote: Fri Mar 20, 2026 12:51 pm What sort of buttons does it have? Is it the traditional rubber button sheet or those clickable metal things that the more fancy remotes have?

Just the sheet with conductive paint, no clicky domes. But no wear that I could see, even after 3 years regular use.

The 3660 which has been my daily driver for a few years now has been missing a few button presses lately. So I cracked it open with the back of a knife whose wedge shape works perfectly, and gave it a good cleaning, and now it's good as new. Just posting to let others know it's easy to open and not ...

As Rob said, you can start with the A11 upgrade. To add or change functions for the A12, go to the Functions tab in RM and click New, enter the Name and type the decimal version of the IR CODE in the OBC column, then assign to a button on the Buttons or Key Map tabs. For example for the A12 SOURCE ...

Terrible option IMO since the all the needed pins are on completely different headers. Plus FTDI isn't the one sabotaging fakes. It's Prolific who does that.

We've posted many known good adapters already.