JP1 Remotes

Nevermind. I found a post that mentioned a similar situation and managed to solder in 4 wires to the traces on the RF pcb. Can't say I want to do anything so delicate anytime soon.

I purchased and installed a URC 9910 for my in-laws and it worked flawlessly for several months. Then one day it just stopped sending RF signals to the home base unit. IR still works just fine.

One side of the remote was open a bit, suggesting it could have been dropped. I cracked open the remote ...

Accidentally fried my IR-543 and all attempts at repair have failed, so if anyone has one out there that they're not using, please let me know. Alternately looking for a CM15A or suitable usb/serial x-10 interface.

Thanks...

Resurrecting this thread to see if anyone else has had a IR543 die on them and been able to repair it with the steps above. I opened mine and saw no signs of diodes burning or fried wires, etc. I think it died when it was accidentally plugged in a x-10 controlled outlet.

I don't have that keyboard and can't be much of a help, but have you tried the other Acer upgrades, the ones hosted here (as opposed to the Yahoo site), particularly the ones for Remote Master? They appear to be a bit newer and might help.

<r>Why don't you outline the steps you took and maybe someone can spot your mistake. Unless your sk7100 is really something else, it should work fine.<br/>
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Couple hints:<br/>
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1. <URL url="http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/dload.php?action=file&file_id=1425"><s>[url=http://www.hifi-remote ...

underquark wrote:Are the tiny copper wires covered in an insulating film or laquer, in which case they often solder better if scraped with fine sandpaper before soldering?

I don't think so, but I'll take another look. Thanks for the heads up... Any other ideas?

Thanks to the kindness of the Masked Man, I now have an 8910 board to replace the burned out one on my HTPro. I swapped them out today and IR functions work perfectly. So then I attempted to swap the RF puck by doing the following...

1. Melted the glue on the 8910 modem coil (lots of glue was ...

My HTPro ceased working and no amount of hard resets, battery replacements, interior cleanings, or swift slaps with the palm of my hand will bring it back from the dead...

So if you happen to have an extra HTPro or 9910 PCB lying around (yeah, likely, I know) I'd be interested in hearing from you ...

Shucks. I have the "arrow key" version. Weren't people able to convert from "donut ring" to "arrow key" though?

I used something similar to that method to perform my first MFR REST, but now (as best I can tell) the buttons are not even registering at all (I get no red light or response on the LCD), so I'm not able to get into the CODE SET menu.

Funny thing is, 99% of the time the LCD reads MEM FAULT but ...

Unfortunately, cracking open the remote and cleaning it did not solve the problem. There were no obvious signs of spillage, though there was a small amount/very thin layer of brown substance on the board around the battery terminals. When I put it back together and put in yet another new set of ...

Thanks Rob. It never occurred to me that there might actually be a guide available on this. I am really humbled by the level of dedication and selfless sharing of knowledge around here...

Thanks for the replies guys. I think Jim may be on to something, as I just tried replacing the batterings with a completely new set and again the remote worked fine for a little while and then froze on the last device button pushed.

Assuming I go the "crack it open and take a look-see" route, any ...

A month or two ago I bought a new HTPro off ebay and it has worked flawlessly until yesterday when it apparently froze in its last device mode (the LCD reads TV, the time, and my tv code, and never fades out like it normally would after a button press) and refused to send out any more signals. At ...