JP1 Remotes

It worked beautifully. Resetting the remote after reading the EEPROM signature value did the trick.

I couldn't find an RDF that had the $1F95 signature for an 8K EEPROM that's extender3, so I created one (by modifying the latest one that's got signature $1815 instead of $1F95).

I verified ...

Thanks, I'll give it a try after resetting the remote.
Also, until you have done an upload to the remote using the correct RDF file, the remote itself well frequently misunderstand its eeprom contents, so you may need 981 resets after any imperfect step in your initial experimentation with the ...

Thanks, johnsfine!

I used the script you provided, and it identified the EEPROM as $1F95, for which there appeared to be extender & rdf files in the zip, so I tried them... unfortunately there were plenty of problems. The best way to explain is to go through the process I followed, so here's what I ...

For anyone following this thread, it seems the 8K EEPROM from mouser.com (24AA64-I/SN) did work in my URC-6012 (modified) remote, although I've not gotten any further than the 981 reset sequence 4-blinks.

This EEPROM is 1.8V compatible, but is arranged in 8 blocks of 1024x8, so I'm not sure yet ...

I was under the impression I could get by without the extender unless I wanted to utilize the extra address space above 2K in the 8K EEPROM... was I mistaken?

If so, could you kindly point me to where I can get the information you're referring to (bug workaround and/or extender needed)? I'm just ...

Okay, I've done all the modifications to the remote:
(1) soldered in JMP2
(2) soldered in 6-pin JP1 header
(3) soldered on the 8-pin EEPROM (8K byte, 24AA64-I/SN)

I did a 981 reset, as instructed, and after doing that I get 4 flashes, but they're more like 2 flashes, a brief pause (half second ...

The digikey 2.5V 8KByte EEPROM is here

That was it!

After getting the remote open (which wasn't so hard after all), the large circular coil (transducer, or whatever it is) was unglued, and the tiny wires were disconnected.

I'm not sure if it matters which wire goes to which pad, but I guessed (longest wire to furthest away pad), glued ...

I'm looking at all the various EEPROM chips out there, and there are a few items that I'm not sure about...

1) I2C versus 2-wire serial bus... does it matter which type?
2) Array configuration: the parts selected here appear to be 8x256x8 (2K byte), and I would presume equivalent 8K compatible ones ...

Ah, nevermind! I just found it... here!
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/disassemble/
This is just what I needed! I wish it was indexed in Google though.
Cheers!

I believe the problem is the modem, because (1) it doesn't appear to work, and (2) something rattles when I shake the remote.

However, opening the thing up is a little scary. Does anyone know if there's a guide to opening remotes without cracking the shell? I'm not sure how to find all the hidden ...

Thanks. I think I'm going to try to get the 8K EEPROM, because the cost is incremental, and if I'm soldering anyway... might as well make it more robust. If I find a part number specifically suited to low voltage, I'll post it, after I've verified that it works.

To JP1-enable the URC-6011/6012, I've read one needs to install a 2K EEPROM. Somewhere, I've also read that they're compatible with ">2K EEprom" where some other remotes have been upgraded to 8K.

1. Are there any advantages to such an upgrade for this remote (or is 2K enough for a 6-device remote ...

This isn't exactly a JP1 question, but it's leading in a JP1 direction... My nearly new URC8910 appears to have a broken modem (having tried the popular WAV updates unsuccessfully, and even OFA tech support's code chirping over the phone didn't take).

I'm building a JP1 cable now. But does anyone ...

I have a URC 6012W remote, but its JP1 header is just a grid of 6 holes (no male header in the remote). Is there an easy way I can add a header to make this remote JP1 compatible? (...and why the heck did OFA leave out the header anyway???).

Thanks.