JP1 Remotes

Zibri wrote:I wonder why.

For EEPROM remotes, it holds the CPU in reset, which lets the interface have control over the EEPROM.

For Flash remotes, it just puts the remote in a "program" mode.

You can use the jack for anything which has an IR blaster, preferably a blaster with a 3.5mm plug.

A fellow called Gary Gray, over at Tivocommunity.com forums, has developed an adapter cable, so that a Series 1 or 2 TiVo can directly control a DTA, with no IR blasters.

The "20 or so" pin connectors are Scart (also known as Peritel), which are commonly for A/V connections where they use PAL video. They are 21 pin.

You can get Scart to RCA cables or adapters.

You use what connection you connect your box with.

Mostly a couple hours, although I have not sat down and got the FTA and Pioneer DVD remote properly working.

The OEM remote "archive" is just a drawer in the lounge I keep some media and accessories.

The family does not care really. Only I use the A/V system I have the 8820 on.

I do not use ...

What kind of glue should be used? I tried contact cement (twice) on my 8910, but it didn't stick for long (twice).

Is the modem and printer plugged in the same outlet? If so, try another.

Is the modem heat sensitive, and excess printer heat knocking it out?

I would even put the modem someplace else entirely.

I have recently benched my 8910 (worn buttons), in favor of an 8820. I never needed the LCD or backlight, and the 8820 has the keys I need (I have most of my OEM remotes to fall back on or even learn from).

The 10820 is a little more the shape and size of the 8910, but still lacks the LCD and ...

If you do realize that most IR protocols use a device/command scheme, meaning device code is the same for all the buttons, just the command code changes, it is pretty easy with KM or RM to make an upgrade.

For just 8 buttons, using a fixed device code should be fine.

To do it, you simply need to ...

I don't need one. I have fixed AC lights behind my HT system. Well, just one, an vintage fluorescent tube bed light from the 1940s (uses a T8-12 tube), and a handheld reflector fixture with a 1W LED bulb (it would normally accept a 60W bulb). Above my TV watching seat, I have a dimmable incandescent ...

Well, for the JP1 remotes, you have to assert (lower) the Reset line on the remote to read them. It can be assumed, when Reset is not asserted, that it is safe to unplug the remote.

As for orientation, of it doesn't read correctly, then it can be assumed it is incorrectly connected.

Maybe /var ...

If you know the protocol and the bit codes needed, plugging that into RM/KM is not that hard.

If making a Pronto Hex file is easiest for you, then do that.

So why does UEI put 6 pin connectors on any of their remotes? Does for example Comcast do any custom programming or clean up of returned remotes?

I can see that the 6 pin connector is very cheap, but aside from our community, which customers derive benefit from the connector?

They are easy to ...

It depends on what the softare that reads that device otputs, if you now how IR transmission works, and what the jp1 tools expect.

To add on UARTs and JP1.2/3:

Normal PC serial ports, and the USB to RS232 adapters use level converters to drive the TTL to the +/- 5 to 12V levels.

The JP1.2/3 interface uses TTL. The basic interface converts between +/- and TTL. Tommy Tyler's JP1.2/3 USB adapter directly uses the already TTL on ...

I never seen an Auto option anywhere.

Still, it is archaic for software to only have COM 1 to COM 4 as an option.